When an Industry Loses Its Heart
To B Honest
When the news broke that STOLL’s Reutlingen production site is closing, for many of us in the industry, it hit like a punch to the gut.
The machines that built industries.
The software that taught us precision.
The engineers who shaped the future — gone.
This isn’t just another corporate restructuring.
This is the end of over a century of innovation that made digital knitting possible.
For those of us who’ve spent our lives designing, engineering, and knitting on these machines — this loss feels deeply personal.
Because it is.
A Legacy Among Legends
By the time most of today’s major knitting machine makers were founded, STOLL had already been perfecting flat knitting for decades.
It wasn’t just an early player — it was the origin point of the digital knitting revolution.
Revolutions were possible because STOLL offered something others did not: computers integrated into machinery and open programming, where each technician can create their own style of programming, design and efficiency.
So, Now What?
Factories, universities, designers, and developers are looking at their CMS systems and realizing — there’s no clear roadmap forward.
Who will update the code, maintain the patterns, or prototype the next generation of performance textiles when it feels like the foundation is crumbling?
The unspoken fear is this:
Without STOLL, how do we scale innovation?
How do we keep creating when the tools we relied on for decades have become part of history?
Our First feeling is that it’s a tragedy, and it will make it difficult if nearly impossible to scale production of advanced textiles.
We’ve used Stoll machinery for 38 years at Fabdesigns and built complete new industries thanks to the ingenuity of our mentor Thomas Stoll who created the first CAD system and made digital manufacturing not only possible but ground breaking for decades.
Engineers like Mr Eglehart and Mr Remp built the CMS which debuted in 1987. Bruce Huffa, was the protege of all three and many others, from his teens onward.
We were both lucky and grateful to work for Stoll in our early 20s, pioneering the US West Coast and parts of Canada with Stoll America. We grew up knitting with these wise minds who built precision.
Unfortunately, this talent and others were not replaced in Germany when they retired and poor decisions since Flyknit in 2008, took the company backwards into the BMS machines and deals for large quantities of machines for scaling footwear, aerospace and automotive projects appeared to be unwisely scuttled by management, stunting the industry and progress.
The Turning Point
At Fabdesigns, we’ve been preparing for this for years.
We began to notice the shift in the mid 00s and10s — when many of the great engineers and textile thinkers retired or moved on. Their deep technical knowledge wasn’t always replaced, and the company’s focus appeared to move away from long-term innovation toward short-term business strategy.
For those of us who knew Mr. H.P. Stoll and Mr.Thomas Stoll personally, and worked closely with the brilliant engineers who built this company’s reputation for innovation, it was difficult to watch. During this period, we continued developing our own technologies independently from STOLL.
Then, between 2008 and 2011, our own work and our independent technology and technical machine modifications, built Nike’s Flyknit, and many other performance technical textile applications in sports, aerospace, medical, and automotive that sold well over a hundred thousand of off the shelf STOLL machines worldwide since 2012.
Yet, despite these successes, our attempts to collaborate further were met with resistance.
Requests came from STOLL for us to share our own proprietary technology — but without any plan for collaboration or mutual protection.
Instead of continuing to lead with technology like the 2012 ADF — one of the most advanced flat knitting systems ever created — STOLL’s direction began to feel uncertain. At trade shows, it became evident that the company was chasing lower-margin markets and returning to older two-system machines and BMS technology reminiscent of the 1970s. The industry was and is still stuck in 2010 technology of the 530 HP knit and wear and multi gauge.
In a normal world of progression, the ADF would have been immediately embraced by STOLL and the 16 feeder ADF should have naturally replaced the 530 HP years sooner than it did. When Thomas Stoll passed a few years ago, it was surprising that the new STOLL management did not honor Thomas Stoll and his genius contributions to STOLL and the industry. We realized that they did not know nor appreciate what groundbreaking pioneering he actually achieved to set STOLL as the market leader for decades.
Decisions at STOLL, in the mid 2010's, inexplicably seemed to slow progress at a time when the world — from apparel to aerospace — was demanding faster, smarter, and more sustainable manufacturing solutions.
It became clear that our own path forward at Fabdesigns would have to diverge.
The Road Ahead
Rather than look back, we decided to move Fabdesigns forward.
There was no choice except to evolove our own technologies and know how beyond the industry stagnation and towards EVs, Drones, Health, and IOS.
At Fabdesigns, we began charting new territory. Machine parts. Materials. Functional Feed systems. New Knit Structures. We were working in 100% technical textiles, a field that STOLL chose to abandon to the handful of orthopeadic device companies. Technical textiles represented less than 2% of all sales prior to Flyknit. Yet, it was Thomas' Stoll's forte as well as several of the top engineers who were mentors as well as friends, colleagues of a special niche. We were knit nerds in a sea of fashion.
We took on the difficult challenges of lightweight and FR composites, E-textiles for virtual reality, biofeedback, video gaming, sports training, wearables, artificial ligaments, for medical rehabilitation, medical bracing, next generation of anatomically correct footwear and protective armor.
Fabdesigns could see the future, but no one at STOLL would listen. We began imagining, inventing, and patenting the next generation of technologies into a robust portfolio of 14 master patents— for footwear, Smart textiles for gaming and VR, medical devices, sports, protection, aerospace composites, automotive applications, and more. We worked with extruders and built new yarns; used yarns and materials differently - combining properties and performance, creating ultradimensional zones, and dosing materials frugally as additive manufacturing.
Fabdesigns has chosen to push the envelop on legacy machinery
In the shadow of STOLL, in the early 2010's, we independently built an advanced warp system, feed systems, patented them and presented the futre to STOLL who was not interested.
We then partnered with the best textile feed system manufacturer in the world, Memminger IRO, which is for the past 5 years, the exclusive licensee and global distributor of the patented MTD unspooling device that makes embedded smart textile possible with wiring, fiber optics, and circuits that are electronically consistent and reapeatable in each and every piece.
We built and patented new cam systems and machine parts as well as new universal technologies for legacy machines from STOLL and other brands such as Shima Seiki, Cixing, Longing, as well as the ADF and new Cixing/Steiger Aires. We wanted the future of innovation to be available to most any type of knitting or textile machine.
Our Next Chapter: Focused, Collaborative, and Built Around You
Let’s admit it — finding real experts in technical knitting these days can feel like hunting for unicorns. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back. Bruce has written five popular books supporting technicians and programmers alike, and made them available on Amazon, Including shaping.
Connie has written 2 books in a series of knitwear design supporting designers, also on Amazon.
At Fabdesigns, we’ve never been afraid to evolve, even when the company we respected for years went in a different direction. Over the past few years, we’ve been quietly restructuring — refining our patents, strengthening partnerships, and building a global network of some of the best yarn suppliers, knit manufacturers, and technical innovators in the world.
What may have looked like silence was actually focus. We realized that innovation works best when we stay true to what we do best — and collaborate with others who are just as passionate and precise. We've built a network that circles the globe because we learned that we cannot be everything to everyone and we cannot do everything alone.
Now, we’ve streamlined our expertise into three specialized companies — each one designed to meet people where they are and help them get where they want to go: All or businesses are focused on sustainbility in materials, manufacturing optimization, consistency and repeatability.
- Fabdesigns, Inc. – The heart of our engineering and innovation. We develop advanced 3D knitting systems, create prototypes, and lead in patented next generatoin technologies that span industries from apparel to aerospace. Our confidential client partnerships always include the ultimate goal of licensing or acquisition of proprietary patent to forward thinking companies, and our projects are curated to ensure alignment and avoid conflicts of interest.
- Modern Material Matters, Inc. – Our general consulting, materials sourcing, and inhouse production powerhouse. We help brands find smarter, more sustainable solutions — from Berry-compliant defense textiles to next-generation composites. It’s where mindful manufacturing meets real-world production. Bruce consults for MMM in knitting, machinery acquisition, inspection, set up and factory set up, training and programming. Connie runs production and heads the product design, strategy and materials development, as well as road mapping from ideation through lauch of many types of projects.
- Knittivity, Inc. – The creative spark. This is where design, color, and knit fabric technology intersect — a playground for designers and brands to explore trend, texture, aesthetics, mixing yarns, colors, textures, and innovation in every stitch. This is remote or in house on various gauge machines. The factories don't have time and are not equiped for this type of experimental design work to understand machine capabilities, costing between materials, and stitches, but we do! Knittivity also creates trend forecasts, mood boads and a library of hot off the press knitting structure programmmed on the M1 plus and graded by gauge, machine type, difficulty in knitting, yarn suitability and eproduction efficiency, all available for instant download on GumRoad. Want a design customized, no problem.
Together, these three companies form a collaborative ecosystem that bridges creativity, technology, and material science. We’ve streamlined our services so you can tap into exactly what you need — whether that’s a quick consulting chat, a technical deep dive, or a long-term development partnership (yes, even for a Mars mission).
Because at Fabdesigns, we’re not just building textiles — we’re building the future of how textiles are made.
In Perspective
From mechanical knitting frames in the 19th century to digital 3D knitwear in the 21st, STOLL’s 150+ year history is looped into the DNA of every technical and fashion knit product made today.
Its closure marks the end of an era — but not the end of its influence.
You need specialists — experts who understand every stitch, every gauge, every fiber — and how to build and rebuild systems around your real needs.
That’s the work we do every day.
We honor the past by engineering the future every day.
- Connie Huffa, CEO of Fabdesigns, Inc.
Author's note: People always ask or assume things that are untrue, so here is the honest answer: Neither Fabdesigns nor it's principals received any compensation from STOLL for it's work with Nike and resulting boon to STOLL in machine sales. Nor does Nike pay Fabdesigns any rolyalties.and instead many others take credit for our work to this day. Creating Flyknit, nearly destroyed Fabdesigns and was a significant financial and emotional loss for Fabdesigns, as well as a legal stand off, in which Fabdesigns has never ceded its pre-existing technology independent of STOLL, to anyone, including STOLL or Nike.
To Put Stoll's Closure Into Perspective
How many companies can you name that have been around since 1983?
- The Kroger Co.: The largest supermarket operator in the U.S., Kroger was founded in Cincinnati, Ohio, by Bernard Kroger in 1883.
- PPG Industries: A major American supplier of paints, coatings, and specialty materials, PPG was founded in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, in 1883.
- Wolverine Worldwide: This footwear and apparel company started as a leather shop in 1883 and is known for its brands like Merrell, Saucony, and Wolverine boots.
- Benjamin Moore & Co.: Founded by brothers Benjamin and William Moore, this major paint company was established in Brooklyn, New York, in 1883.
- Lucchese Bootmaker: This Texas-based company, known for its handcrafted cowboy boots, has been in operation since 1883.
- Benjamin Moore & Co.: This American paint company was founded by brothers Benjamin and William Moore.
- Boots: The British pharmacy chain's distinctive logo was first used in 1883.
- Parker Brothers: The American toy and game manufacturer was founded by George S. Parker.
- Oscar Mayer: Though now a subsidiary of Kraft Heinz, the company Oscar F. Mayer & Co. was founded in Chicago in 1883.
- Jacob Bromwell: This U.S. housewares company was incorporated in 1883, although its origins as a business date back to 1819.
How many textile oriented companies can you name that have been around since 1983? Stoll's peers ar
- Levi Strauss & Co. (1853, USA) – Pioneers of denim jeans and workwear; their use of durable woven cotton parallels STOLL’s innovation in knitwear manufacturing.
- Burberry (1856, UK) – Innovators of gabardine fabric and outerwear; contemporaries in textile engineering and material advancement.
- Loro Piana (Founded 1924, roots back to early 1800s, Italy) – Although officially later, its early family textile business dates to STOLL’s era and shares a similar lineage in fabric excellence.
- Cone Denim (1891, USA) – Founded less than a decade after STOLL; became a cornerstone of American denim manufacturing and textile innovation.
- Pfaff Sewing Machines (1862, Germany) – A direct industry counterpart in textile machinery; both Pfaff and STOLL represent the German tradition of engineering precision.
- Singer Sewing Company (1851, USA) – Like STOLL, revolutionized manufacturing with mechanization, bringing mass production to textiles and apparel.
- Liberty Fabrics (1875, UK) – Famous for printed cottons and silk textiles; their founding sits just a few years before STOLL and they defined fabric aesthetics for generations.
- Coats Group (1755, Scotland) – The world’s oldest and largest industrial thread manufacturer; their expansion into machine embroidery and technical threads parallels STOLL’s rise in knitting machinery.
- DMC (1746, France) – Still producing high-quality embroidery and specialty yarns; DMC and STOLL both represent European textile craftsmanship evolving with technology.
- J. & P. Coats / Clark & Co. (merged 1896) – Another foundational player in sewing and industrial threads; a global force that has survived alongside STOLL through every textile revolution since the 19th century.
- The Merrow Sewing Machine Company was founded in 1838 in Connecticut, USA — making it one of the oldest continuously operating sewing machine manufacturers in the world. Merrow predates STOLL (founded in 1882) by over 40 years, and both companies have been foundational in shaping modern textile manufacturing — Merrow for finishing and seaming, and STOLL for knit structure creation.
Founding Of Major Knitting Innovators
Note: Merrow is not a knitting machine manufacturer but the overlock machine made cut and sew of knitted fabric much easier to assemble. Overlockin is an industry staple and the overlock machine revolutionized knitwear manufacturing in the US.
Our Partners
Get Started Today
Discover the power of digitally manufacturing your products.
Unlock the power of digital manufacturing. Our team of experts ensure that you have access to the most recent developments in digital manufacturing, sustainable process and product development. Whether you're looking to create new products, revamp legacies, or build and scale an agile platform to launch multiple products, we've got you covered.